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West Africas borderless women: Inside the Yoruba sisterhood linking Nigeria and Cte dIvoire
Across four nations lies a century-old path from Ejigbo to Abidjan. Discover how Yoruba women turned this hidden trail into a lifeline of legacy.
It was a moment that would forever change her life. Sitting with her sibling who had recently moved to Côte d'Ivoire, she listened intently as they shared stories of opportunity, growth, and new beginnings.
"It was never in my thoughts that I would ever go to Côte d'Ivoire until one of my brothers came from there to take me," recalls Madam Rebecca Adebayo, from Ejigbo, Southwest Nigeria, who migrated over five decades ago.
"I just finished modern school and had taken the form for nursing school. My boyfriend later disappointed me, so I went to Ibadan and was doing well selling provisions at Agbeni Market. Then one of my half-brothers came from Côte d'Ivoire and insisted that they should call me back home.”
Hearing about the opportunities in Côte d'Ivoire planted a seed in Madam Rebecca’s heart. It was a chance to start afresh, to build a better life for herself and her family.
That moment when hope met uncertainty became the turning point. She bravely embraced the unknown, her courage shining through as she was convinced that her aspirations could transcend boundaries.
"I was already married with a child, so they begged my husband. I had to sell off all the provisions quickly and pack my things ready for the trip with my child while my husband stayed behind."
Madam Rebecca would never return to her first husband in Nigeria and had to remarry in Côte d'Ivoire. Now 80 years old, she is one of many Ejigbo women who migrate to Côte d'Ivoire daily.
Decades ago, economic exigencies and limited opportunities pushed many women to seek a better life in Côte d'Ivoire. In recent times, the exodus has persisted, weaving stories of migration into the everyday life of the quiet streets of Ejigbo. Although specific statistics are non-existent, a casual interaction with many Ejigbo people will show that most families in Ejigbo have multiple members in Côte d'Ivoire.
The Osun State official website notes that out of about 1.2 million Nigerians residing in Côte d'Ivoire since the 1900s until the present, indigenes of the Ejigbo local government area made up more than 50%.
Opeyemi Aderanti, Secretary of LABA International Transport, who has been with the company for over six years, confirms that the number of female travelers outweighs that of men.
"Many travelers focus on business, and since women constitute the majority in trade, this may explain why the population of women migrants exceeds that of men. However, we do serve both male and female customers."
For many, the journey across four nations is a transformative experience, opening doors to fresh opportunities and a brighter future. The trip to Côte d'Ivoire transcends the simple act of crossing borders to become an odyssey through the very essence of West Africa.
These women travel for two to three days through Nigeria, Benin Republic, Togo, Ghana to Côte d'Ivoire.
"When I first approached the Seme border in Lagos, my heart was pounding. I had never crossed an international border before, and the chaos around me was overwhelming," recalls Sewa Abidoye.
"Crossing into Benin Republic, I felt a rush of relief mixed with apprehension. The language changed, and the environment felt more foreign. I realized I was beginning a journey into unfamiliar physical and emotional territory."
Sewa was mesmerized by the lush green landscapes and lively market scenes in Togo. The border process was quicker in Ghana where the air was filled with music and energy.
"When I finally arrived at the Côte d'Ivoire border in Noé, I felt both exhausted and excited. I looked around and saw people bustling with purpose and felt a sense of hope."
But it was a different travel experience when Rebecca embarked on her journey decades ago. She recalls that transportation to Côte d'Ivoire at the time was by ship:
"There were no luxury buses in Ejigbo going to Côte d'Ivoire. When I learnt that we would travel by ship, I was afraid and skeptical about entering it, but I eventually summoned enough courage to board it."
Salmat Oladeji, who migrated in 1982, shares her own experience of the journey:
"Luxury buses plied on the road with the passengers' loads and luggage all in the vehicle. If the vehicle becomes faulty, it can take six days, a week, or more. It may happen in the middle of nowhere, and there won't be food or water. Sometimes, we eat only raw pepper with cassava," she reminisces.
"Now, there are many options for vehicles. The luxury buses take three days to complete the journey, while the small vehicles take two days."
According to the Migration Data Portal's regional data overview for West Africa, Côte d’Ivoire constitutes one of the top 10 migration corridors in West Africa and is the number one destination country for migrants within the region.
As of mid-2020, Ivory Coast was home to 2,564,857 migrants, constituting 9.7% of the population. People move within the region partly because of a shared goal to strengthen regional economic ties. This has made it easier for them to travel freely, live, and set up businesses in other ECOWAS countries.
For female migrants, policies such as the ECOWAS Common Approach on Migration (2008) have opened doors to new economic opportunities and personal growth while emphasizing gender. Freedom of movement reduces the traditionally faced barriers, such as visa requirements and lengthy border procedures, enabling women to pursue previously inaccessible livelihoods.
Olalekan Henry Adebodun, a distinguished researcher in migration, gender studies, diaspora, and sociopolitical history, meticulously traces the roots of the Ejigbo-Cote d’Ivoire migration.
"In the 1900s, two men from Ejigbo town named Alabi Emmanuel and Alhaji Muthahiru Saraki (Lawure) were the first set of people to migrate out of Ejigbo to Abidjan. Their prosperity attracted many from Ejigbo to Abidjan, and the movement has continued to date," he states.
"The Ejigbo people had long decided to settle in Abidjan (Cote d’Ivoire’s major urban center) for business purposes, and this is what they are known for in Abidjan. Although there are Ejigbo people in other West African countries like Ghana, Togo, Burkina Faso, Liberia, and Benin, to mention a few, it should be noted that those in this category are few." (Business Insider Africa)